Mount Kun: The 7,077 mt. Trekking Challenge in the Zanskar Range

Mount Kun is in news after Indian Army mountaineering expedition

Mount Kun, rising to 7,077 meters in height, is the second highest peak in the Nun Kun massif located in the Zanskar Range in the Ladakh region of India. It lies near the Suru Valley and attracts mountaineers for its challenging climb.

Mount Kun is in the news after a recent (Oct, 2023) Indian Army mountaineering expedition to the peak tragically ended with the death of one soldier and three others missing after an avalanche struck the team. The 7,077 meter high Mount Kun presents a challenging summit climb in the Zanskar range located in the Ladakh region of northern India.

The mountain lies in the Nun Kun massif, which is home to several lofty peaks separated by high-altitude snowy plateaus. Along with the adjacent Nun peak, which stands tall at 7,135 meters, Mount Kun attracts skilled mountaineers from around the world eager to test their skills against its treacherous slopes. Its ascent requires expert-level mountaineering expertise in ice climbing, rope work, and navigation.

Overview of Mount Kun and Zanskar

Mount Kun and Zanskar Range
Mount KunZanskar Range
  • Height: 7077 meters
  • Location: Near Sankoo, Suru valley, Ladakh
  • Position: Second-highest of Nun Kun massif
  • Separation: 4-kilometer snow plateau from Nun (7135 meters)
  • Range: Zanskar, Indian side of Line of Control
  • Satellites: Barmal, White Needle, Pinnacle Peak
  • Geography: Horseshoe shape above Suru river, border of Kashmir and Zanskar
  • First Climb: Mario Piacenza, 1913
  • Indian Army Expedition: Successful climb after 58 years
  • Climbing: Requires advanced mountaineering techniques
  • Location: Ladakh, north of the Great Himalayan Range
  • Length: 400 kilometers
  • Separates: Ladakh from Kashmir, Chenab River, Kinnaur, Spiti
  • Average Height: 6,000 m
  • Highest Peak: Kamet, 7,756 meters
  • Important Passes: Zojila, Shipki, Lipu Lekh, Mana
  • Rivers: Shingo, Zanskar, Hanle, Suru, Khurna (all flow to Indus River)

About Mount Kun and Nun Kun Massif

mt kun map
mt kun map

Geographical location

  • Part of Nun Kun massif in Kargil district of Ladakh
  • Suru Valley, 141 km from Leh
  • Twin peaks of Nun (7135m) and Kun (7077m) separated by 4 km long snow plateau

Geographically, Mount Kun is situated near the Suru Valley in the Kargil district of Ladakh. The peak lies approximately 141 kilometers west of the town of Leh. The massif can be accessed by road, first travelling from Srinagar to Kargil on NH 1D, a distance of 210 kilometers. From Kargil, the Suru Valley is around 80 kilometers away via the Kargil Zanskar road passing through the town of Sankoo.

Several routes varying in technical difficulty exist to reach the summit of Mount Kun. The standard route starts from the southwest side moving along the main ridge connecting Nun peak to the summit. Other routes tackle the peak from the northwest and south sides. Summit expeditions typically last 15-20 days round trip starting from the roadhead.

First ascents and climbs

  • First sighted in 1898, explored in early 1900s
  • First ascent of Kun in 1913 by Italian mountaineer Mario Piacenza
  • Climb is technically challenging, requires mountaineering skills

The Nun Kun massif was first documented in 1898, followed by exploratory visits in the early 1900s. In 1913, the Mount Kun summit was first climbed successfully by Italian mountaineer Mario Piacenza along with his partner Lorenzo Borelli.

For over five decades after this pioneering ascent, Mount Kun saw no further visits by climbers. It was only in 1971 that an Indian Army expedition finally managed to summit the peak again. The long gap highlights the significant challenges involved in climbing Mount Kun even by today’s standards.

The ascent requires expertise in specialized mountaineering techniques like ice axe work, setting protection anchors, rope work, and the use of climbing hardware like carabiners, ropes, and harnesses. Knowledge of acclimatization to altitude and navigating avalanche-prone slopes is also essential.

Access and routes

  • Accessed via road from Srinagar to Kargil, then to Suru Valley
  • Multiple routes varying in difficulty, summit climb requires expertise

The Zanskar Range

Location and extent

  • Located in Ladakh region of northern India
  • Extends ~400 km from Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh
  • Forms natural boundary between regions

Major peaks and passes

  • Average elevation of ~6,000m, highest peak is Kamet (7,756m)
  • Important passes like Zojila, Shipki La, Lipu Lekh

The Zanskar range is a gorgeous arm of the Himalayas known for its remote location and quintessential Tibetan Buddhist culture. The range stretches approximately 400 kilometers across the Ladakh region starting from the northwest corner of Himachal Pradesh all the way to Ladakh’s eastern border with Tibet.

With an average elevation of 6,000 meters, the snow-covered peaks of the range form the natural boundary between the different geographical regions of the area. To the south, the range separates Ladakh from the Kashmir Valley and Kinnaur region, while to the north it divides Ladakh from Baltistan.

The highest summit in the Zanskar range is Kamet, which stands tall at 7,756 meters. Other major mountains include Mentok Kangri and Chong Kumdan Kangri, both over 7,000 meters in height. Famous high mountain passes of the region are the Zoji La, Shipki La, and Lipu Lekh pass.

Rivers and valleys

  • Source of rivers like Zanskar, Suru that join the Indus
  • Separates Kinnaur area from Spiti Valley

The glaciated peaks of the Zanskar range serve as the source for many rivers that flow north to join the mighty Indus. The Suru, Zanskar, Hanle and Dras rivers originate from the various branches of the range. These waterways have carved out deep gorges and valleys over millennia, creating gorgeous high-altitude landscapes.

The rivers also sustain the unique trans-Himalayan ecosystem of the region. Due to the rain shadow effect, the area experiences arid conditions with sparse vegetation. Many endangered mammals like the snow leopard, Asiatic ibex, Tibetan wolf and Ladakh urial thrive in this environment.

Biodiversity and culture

  • Trans-Himalayan biodiversity, endemic flora and fauna
  • Sparsely populated, predominantly Tibetan Buddhist culture

The villages nestled within the towering mountainscapes of Zanskar are sparsely populated, with most folks following Tibetan Buddhism. Given the harsh winter conditions, many remote settlements become cut-off from the rest of the region during snowfall.

However, Zanskar’s geographical isolation has enabled the preservation of ancient cultural and spiritual practices. Colorful monasteries dot the landscape with some dating back nearly a thousand years. The range is also popular with adventure seekers and photographers looking to capture its stunning natural beauty.

In summary, Mount Kun presents a challenging summit climb in the majestic Zanskar range, a culturally and ecologically rich Trans-Himalayan region. Its ascent requires expert-level mountaineering skills.

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